Clip Pedals

Nope! Every pair of pedals has the updated binding plate installed from the get-go, so you're ready to roll, hassle-free.

Our design focuses on two key improvements: eliminating unnecessary play in the cleat-to-binding connection and increasing the maximum release tension. To achieve this, we completely redesigned the binding and refined the cleat-to-binding connection, creating a tighter, more secure fit without sacrificing float. This provides a locked-in, confident feel while you ride. For greater adjustability and control, we engineered springs with a higher maximum tension and a wider range of usable adjustments, allowing you to fine-tune your setup to match your preferences.

If you’re having trouble clipping into the pedal or the binding feels overly tight, even at low tension, there are two adjustments you can make.

First, installing a the provided cleat spacer(s) allows your cleat to make connection with the binding sooner, reducing the interference between the pedal and shoe and making it easier to clip-in.

Second, you can remove the pedal pins to eliminate any additional interference. We recommend starting by adjusting the front pins and then the rear pins, if necessary.

We recommend using our cleats with our pedals. However, Shimano SH51 SPD™ cleats are also compatible. We can't confirm compatibility with, or recommend, any other SPD™ based cleats from other brands. Use these at your own risk.

While we can't guarantee a completely universal fit with the multitude of shoe brands and sizes out there, any shoes with a 2-bolt cleat mounting interface should be compatible. Cleat spacers may be required in some cases.

Our Clip Pedals can be used with or without the pins, but the pins themselves are not height adjustable. They are designed to bottom out in the pin hole, functioning like a standard screw.

If you’re trying to make clipping in easier, we recommend using a cleat spacer first to reduce interference between your shoe and the pedal. If additional adjustments are needed after installing the spacer, you can remove the pins to further minimize interference. Start by removing the front pins, and then the rear pins if necessary.

The hollow design allows dirt to pass through the pin, eliminating the need to pick dirt out before removal. To remove a damaged pin, you can use a 2.5mm Allen key from either the front or back. If removing it from the back, remember to turn clockwise to loosen it. This design ensures easy maintenance and hassle-free removal when damaged.